Unlike the francaise the pet en l'air tends to be less commonly made amongst the costuming community. Fortunately there are a few costumers who have and have documented their process. Thank you to them, I will use your experience wisely. However, let's briefly go into extant pet en l'airs and the history behind them.
Firstly, the name. I used to think it was pet en l'air, but I've recently seen is spelled as pet en l'ier. I'm currently unsure as to which one is correct, but I think everyone can agree that the translation into English is roughly "fart in the air". I just don't even....
This garment came into fashion in the mid 18th century and is pretty much just a francaise made by a seamstress who ran out of fabric, and haven't we all been there. I'm only joking, of course, but it is just a shortened version of a robe a la francaise, so if you don't have the 10m+ requirement for a full on francaise, then this is the next best thing.
According to the French Wikipedia, it was given it's name due to the fact that it stops just below the buttocks. The length part is certainly right, pet en l'air's are usually below hip level, but I have seen a tad shorter. Whether this was the reason it was given it's name is beyond me.
Most extant garments I've seen usually come with a matching petticoat, made from the same fabric.
That doesn't necessarily mean they were only worn with the matching petticoat. In the 18th century and beyond it was all about versatility. By this I mean clothes were expensive to buy/make, hence garments had to last quite a long time, and survive the multiple possible alterations of future fashions. Jackets could go with any petticoat, and vice versa. I'm also not a great fan of the look. I like contrast better than matching, so obviously my pet en l'air will not have a "matching" petticoat in the same fabric (because it was expensive and I haven't won the lottery yet despite never having bought a ticket).
Just like the francaise, the pet en l'air could be "closed" 2 different ways; with pins and a stomacher, or compere front with buttons down the front. I've also seen them pinned closed at the centre front, like an italian gown, and tied with ribbons.
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| Stomacher closure |
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| Looks like hooks and eyes on the CF of this one, correct me if I'm wrong |
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| Compere front |
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| Wild card: Tie front |
That brings me onto context. Jackets in previous centuries, like the ones in the 16th and 17th century, were informal wear, casual wear, the day-time pajamas of the era. They'd only be worn in the house, or would be covered if going anywhere. By the middle to late 18th century they're still casual wear, but you can wear them on their own and out of the house. They make their way into fashion plates of the era. They're an accepted part of women's outerwear.
Obviously, they're still informal as you wouldn't wear them to a ball, party, or court, but at least you don't have to cover them up.
Pet en l'airs also have sisters. The tempting Brunswick, which is a pet en l'air with a hood, and the Jesuit. The Brunswick is the travelling version of the pet en l'air with a hood, long sleeves, high neck, and usually buttoned up the front. It didn't need to have the sack-back, and could be fitted instead. It could also have a 2-piece sleeve, with the botton being separate. A Jesuit, according to sources, is a longer version, usually full-length. Because both were travelling outfits, they were commonly not worn over skirt supports.
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| Arguably, the most famous Brunswick |
For my project I'm tackling the normal pet en l'air, with skirt supports and contrasting petticoat. That's it as far as these jackets are concerned. Looks like a relatively straightforward project, but will most definitely not be.
