Yes, 2020 was dominated by the dreaded C-word. No, not that one you dirty b**tard. Events were cancelled, the world went into hibernation even though winter was over, and we all had to adjust to a society that couldn't function like it always had. For me, though, it actually hasn't been all that bad. Now, I don't want to seem smug. I've also faced some difficulties this year, like everyone else, but all in all 2020 has been a pretty momentous year for me. I was due to finish my PhD this year, and despite the nonsense, and the lockdowns, and the fake news, I managed to submit in October, defended in December, and passed.
It wasn't all roses and unicorns though, because it meant I was trying to find a job in 2020, fresh off my PhD, with a pittance for work experience at the lowest level on the academic ladder. It took me ages, and a lot of half-hearted job applications, but eventually a department decided to give me a chance (and not for the job I had applied for in the first place). These two things are a source of guilt. In a world that feels like it's burning, I feel like I'm benefitting.
But, we're not here to talk about that, are we? No, we're here to talk about the drought. I've had a stressful year (not because of aforementioned public nuisance that beings with C), but so has everyone in a lot of respects. Where I could usually take solace in sewing, the latter half of the year became the worst sewing drought I think I've ever experienced.
I think I usually get sewing fatigue in September-December, but this was longer than that, and more severe. I'm a person of opposites. For a few months in spring to early summer I was starting projects left, right, and centre. I wanted to sew everything. What's the opposite of this? It's wanting to sew nothing. And that's exactly what happened to me in September/October, just when my PhD was wrapping up and I was applying for jobs. You could say it was stress, but I think there's something much more tangible.
Wasps. Yes, another source of major stress. I had the largest wasps nest known to man (or at least the local pest control company) in my roof, right on top of my sewing room. The house I currently live in is 200+ years old, and so has....points of entry. One night I found 10 of the wee b**tards in there, clinging to the window desperately wishing it would disappear and they could be free. I hate wasps at the best of times, but after this incident I loathe them with every fibre of my being. This particular incident went on for months. The first company I hired didn't do the job properly, then ignored my requests for them to come back and fulfill their guarantee, so I ended up having to get someone else. Even after the nest was gone, though, every day for about 2 weeks I was finding a wasp or three in the sewing room. This was October, food was sparse, and I hated them so much I stopped letting them out of the window and just introduced them to my vacuum cleaner.
I can't explain how much stress and anxiety this caused me. It doesn't sound like it should, but there was times I was out with the dog that I just didn't want to come home because I'd have to deal with the wasps that'd managed to get into that room. For months the door was closed, and I only opened it to do a wasp check. It was awful, but as with all bad times, they do eventually disappear. By the time I started my new job in November, the room was pretty much clear.
There are many reasons why people stop sewing. For me it was a culmination of boredom and stress. But that didn't mean I didn't sew at all this year. So let's get into this review properly. In this year from Tim Burton's imagination, what did I manage to eek out?
1.) 18th century stays
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| Apologies, I haven't managed to take a picture of the completely finished item |
2.) An Italian gown
This was, according to my atrocious publishing shcedule, the first outfit I completed in 2020, back in April. I was meant to be attending two 18th century events this year and wanted to expand my 18th century wardrobe. I quite like this gown, but it's by no means my favourite project of the year.
3.) An 1824 ensemble
Without looking, I can guarantee you this was not on my list of things to make this year. Little did I know that lockdown would happen, and I'd be able to watch the 2020 adaptation of Jane Austen's Emma on Amazon one weekend and immediately want to make a similar dress. If you've been reading this blog for any length of time you'll know I don't like the empire-waisted fashion of Austen adaptations. This isn't because I don't like it, it's because it doesn't suit my body type. However, in 1820 a wonderful thing happens. The waistline starts to stop down to more flattering for me levels.
I have no strong feelings about this project. In hindsight it's a big....eh. Again, having a back fastening gown when you live on your own is madness, wouldn't recommend. And I really messed up the armscyes on this one, so can't lift my arms up proplerly. We live and learn. I do like the trim on the hem though. I definitely need to take it up an inch or so if I ever decide to wear it to an event.
My favourite thing about this project is by far the chemisette. It was easy to make, and I love the collar. I kind of failed a bit with the detachable sleeves, I measured it from the wrong point on my arm. They're supposed to be attached to the sleeve cap, not the chemise underneath. Oh well, I still have an adorable chemisette out of it.
4.) 1820s corded stays
This must be the year of commercial pattern use for undergarments. This is the second pair of stays I've made using a pattern (not the same one). I've had this Laughing Moon pattern for ages, and since I wanted to make an 1820s ensemble I knew it was easier to just use it. I actually quite like these. They're comfortable, elegant, and simple. Bad points. They do come up a bit low at the bust compared to other examples I've seen. This is most definitely the pattern. I didn't alter it at all. I also have a feeling I may have chosen bust gored that were too small, but I really can't be sure. Fortuantely, I don't feel the need to make a pair in the near future, so these'll have to do.
5.) Chemise a la Reine V2
Another stop on my 18th century wardrobe. I wanted to make a completely white chemise a la reine, unlike my previous one which was made of floral cotton (and which I intend, one day, to alter into a 1790s transitional gown). This dress was the last dress I made this year, and is by far my favourite. I really did put a lot of effort in. It's completely finished, there's not an unfinished seam in sight anywhere. I finished everything by hand, including the neck ruffle which I hand roll-hemmed. It's comfy, easy to get into, and just so pretty.
a.) Halloween version
For the first time in my sewing career, I decided to do a Halloween themed shoot, and since I'd just finished it, my project of choice was this chemise a la reine. I think this is the most fun I've had for a shoot, possibly ever. It was so nice not having to copy the look from a specific period or era, no fussing about the hair or makeup. I'l definitely be doing this again.
6.) 1730-1755 POF5 stays
I feel like these took me a year to complete as I'm pretty sure I started working on this project in 2019. Regardless, I managed to finish them (mostly) this year. These were intended to go under my Robe a la francaise (see no. ?) at an event this year. I still haven't completely finished binding them, but I'm not going to nitpick.
7.) An early Gable Hood
This is a bit weird. Milinery....I went through a phase at the end of my PhD through to the end of the year of making Tudor/16th century headdresses. I made this one up, found major problems with it, ripped it apart and made it up again. I've always loved this style, and this was quite a fun project to problem solve.
8.) A late Gable Hood
Yeah, I wasn't about to make the early one and not have a go at the later one, was I? This one was the most difficult of all the headdresses, and annoyed me to no end. The pattern I used had awful instructions, and the bag box cap bit of the pattern didn't end up fitting my finished front structure. I've yet to manage the strength fo have another look at it, but I'll put it on this list anyway.
9.) An early French Hood/Anny of Brittany hood
This was my first foray into headgear as it looked the simplest. I had some tweaks to make to the pattern, but all in all this is definitely my favourite.
10.) I think you know.....
Continuting the Tudor milinery trend, I did have a go at the later style of French Hood. And just like with the early Gable Hood, I ended up taking this one apart with a mind to tweak it a bit to it looked better. The crescent sticks up too much, and the base (the black bit) is just all wrong. The base is currenly in pieces, but the crescent just needs attached differently.
11.) An 1840s day dress
I managed to eek this one out at the last minute, although I did technically start it in 2019, I didn't finish it properly until 2020, so I'll include it in this list.
11.) UFOs
I know, I don't think I've ever had this category before, but this year was terrible for starting things and abandoning them with just as much ease.
a.) 14th century supportive kirtle: I got so far as finalising a pattern for this, but never got around to buying fabric for it, and so the pattern sits languishing in the sewing room.
b.) Robe a la Francaise: the final outfit of my new 18th century wardrobe. After the event was cancelled I switched priorites to the chemise a la reine, which was easier. I have the mock-up of the lining cut out but have yet to assemble and fit it.
c.) 1837 day dress: I can't remember what inspired me to start this. I scaled up a pattern from The cut of Woman's clothes, and even bought fabric, but never got around to a mock-up. This is most definitely doing to be on my plans for 2021, so more details on that post.
d.) Tudor structured kirtle: Taken from The Tudor Tailor book. I mocked this up and finalised the pattern, but haven't bought fabric for it yet. I also changed my mind and decided I'd prefer to do an earlier style of kirtle, and as of writing I still can't decide.
e.) Early Tudor kirtle: essentially just the once above but without all the boning.
f.) A French Hood: Since I pulled the one above apart with a mind to tweak it a bit, it's technically a UFO.
Wow, despite a sewing drought, I actually got through quite a lot. Mostly small projects, and the beginning stages of projects, but you can see where I began to give up the ghost and turned instead to small milinery projects. A trend which will hopefully continue until I get the headgear just right.
Since my PhD is still not completely out of my life, and I started a new job, I think the first few months of this year is going to be busy, and I'm not quite out of the sewing drought, so 2021 may be a bit sparser, but here's hoping for a general improvement.
